ECU trends at SAE Convergence

He (Steve Magner of Ford Motor Co) used the term "high degree of freedom" (HDOF) to describe the typical modern powerplant, and explained that the table-based method ("full factorial mapping") of calibrating ECUs has basically reached its limit. Where as it's desirable to complete the calibration of a new engine in about four months, a HDOF engine currently requires up to 15 months to fully define in the laboratory. In one example, developing just the timing maps for the EPA' s fuel economy test cycle involved 630 states of operation and three months of time on the dyno.

Via Autoblog

2006 2.5L WRX STI test drive

Managed to test drive the 2.5L WRX STI. Motor Image supplied a basic model in black, with more than 2000 km on the odometer... tires are RE070 with 225 width, slightly worn, but still road-worthy.

First things first, the good stuff. Good usable torque down low in the rev range, decent interior. Suspension is firm, maybe a little too firm for local roads. That's about it.

Now on to the stuff I didn't like.

Didn't get the chance to pop open the hood, but I suspect this model has a drive-by-wire throttle. The idling is uneven. The RPM nose-dives, sometimes even hitting the big "0" on the tachometer when making a turn, and the steering suddenly goes heavy at times. A quick prod of the throttle yields... NOTHING! Ironically a DBW throttle integrated with a good idle control system should have eliminated these problems, yet here they are rearing their ugly heads! And this is in a stock car! I've driven some very temperamental cars with aggressive cam overlaps and they don't exhibit symptoms as severe as this.

Secondly, the gear shift. Pushing the gear lever into first feels rough, as if the synchronizers are worn. Second is just as bad. Third and up feels fine though. Now if you're just moving off slowly from standstill, it's not so bad. But when the throttle is floored, and you depress the clutch pedal to shift into 2nd, you find that the linkage shifts so badly you find yourself shifting into 4th instead of 2nd!

Third... the differential is screwed. Making turns is difficult, and you can feel the inside and outside wheels disagreeing on the proper speeds to maintain. It became so bad until a loud "KLONK" could be heard emanating from the back. Eventually I just gave up and set the DCCD torque split to a RWD-biased configuration.

Maybe I was unlucky and drove a lemon. Maybe they need a reason for customers to buy the S204. I drove Edmund's 2.5L WRX and that was by far a much better drive. Sure the power is not up to par but it's a much better value for money. I would be amazed if anyone still put a deposit on it without at least giving an Evo 9 GT a test drive first.

Kids

So my sister-in-law, who's a teacher, was trying to instill in my nephew a sense of industriousness.

"Mommy works hard at school so that she gets paid and can buy things for the family."

At which point the little boy looks stunned.

"You mean you get paid?! I hate going to school but I still do, and they don't pay me!"

Ferrari V12 engine production

The Giants Sometimes Get Things Wrong, Too

Given David Buschur's standing in the US Evo forums, he's pretty much untouchable. It's impossible to hold a meaningful discussion there because his words carry a lot of weight and the fanboys are just going to jump in and start a slagging match.

My personal observation in the past is that if you put a GT3582 turbo on a car it is going to make XX power, depending on the parts combinations the car has on it. The absolute highest WHP I have seen from a GT35R is Curt Brown's car. It made right at 650 whp here on our dyno at 40 psi of boost. The turbo kit is an AMS GT35R kit. Now you need to understand that Curt's car has every single part you can imagine on it, everything has been lightened as light as it can go, wheels, tires, clutch, flywheel, brakes etc. This all helps to increase the power levels. Not taking anything away from it, just making a point that all of the power isn't from the difference in the turbo kit. I have dyno'd other AMS kits that made what I would expect, Curt, his car and his driving are all FREAKS!! haha

My personal RS with 17" SSR wheels, Neova tires, stock sized brakes front and rear, e-brake still instact, Exedy Clutch (20 pounds heavier than a Tilton) stock intake manifold and throttle body made 572 whp at 38 psi of boost. There more power to be had and I think I could have hit 600 whp with it. No telling how much power I'd gain if I took 20 pounds off the flywheel, put lightweight brakes etc on the car. Not sure that the sheetmetal intakes and 3" throttle bodies would pick up anything substantial or not. But these are all differences that need to be said.

Original thread here.

I don't see how you can gain power by lightening the vehicle. Can you?

This is not a bash. I feel DB makes some pretty good products, and is overall a straight up dude. But some things he says, just don't make sense at all. So... the point of this post is to remind everyone that even the greats are fallible. Be on your guard. Always.